Year 2, making and selling Cider
I’ve been making cider for
years but this is my second year of selling on to pubs. I live in London but
source apples down in Devon, pressing and fermenting at my in-laws’ house just outside
Newton Abbot.
This year I doubled down on
production. I fermented 450 litres of cider from apples donated by farmers who
had no use for them, a paltry amount by commercial standards but a fair bit of
hard graft for me.
Most of the trees I picked
from were old, scattered around ancient fields.
None of the farmers really knew the types of trees they had so I
collected by taste, looking for the mouth-puckering tannins and balancing with
the sweeter varieties and some cookers from a friend’s garden (I’m no expert
but learning!). A few days of picking was followed a couple of weeks later by
three days of pressing in late October 2015, a really mild dry period. In the
spring I racked off a few bottles and started stalking the streets. It’s hard
to sell cider in London, most pubs are tied or require you to have accounts and
even then there is not much passion for real cider outside a few more
specialist outlets.
The Bree Louise in Euston have
been fantastic to me, they took everything last year and a fair few boxes this
year (despite a self deflating bag-in-box incident last year). It took patience,
everywhere that tried my cider loved it, but a few establishments never got back
to me which is frustrating. One place run by a Bristolian took the cider for
his staff admitting that he liked it but there is not much call for it in
London. The Nell Gwinn, a lovely pub on the strand and definitely not a cider
pub took a box and had a great response.
Transport has been a
challenge as the car bounces low on its suspension on the trip back up the A303
with more than 120l in the back in addition to two kids and associated paraphernalia,
giving me lots of excuses to escape the smoke and head west for new batches.
I’ve nearly covered my costs, less petrol and time but the reward is making
something and then seeing someone ask for it at the bar.
Cider is an underappreciated
drink with an image destroyed by the syrupy likes of mass-market brands. People
just don’t know how it’s meant to taste. At least cooking lager is a vague approximation
of the craft variety. In the States there seems to be a real wave of craft
cider on the back of craft beer, a trend that has not yet landed here. That’s despite
the UK having a strong heritage with the Eastern and West Country styles and it
being baked into the DNA of the countryside.
There is a small clique of cider
aficionados but to most people what we know as real cider is completely
different from their expectation (and much much stronger - at around 6% it does
not led itself to session drinking, at least not in pints). That’s a hurdle
that needs to be overcome, I’m still not sure of the answer. One pub I visited
asked about bottled cider. It’s how I drink it a home, as it keeps better than bag
in box but its much more of a faff manually filling bottles and operating the
crown capper. However bottle conditioning adds a fizz that is more in line with
expectations and most pubs are better set up for bottles.
This coming year I plan to
experiment more, try natural yeasts and try keeving, there’s a whole world out
there…
Great cider, so nice to get a sulphite free in Newton Abbot where I live. Keep up the good work!
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